Columbia, a city known for its charm and vibrant community, is gearing up to say goodbye to one of its beloved spots. Hunter-Gatherer Brewery & Ale House, the first microbrewery in Columbia, will close its doors for the last time at 900 Main St. on December 28, marking the end of an era that has lasted nearly three decades.
More than thirty years ago, Kevin Varner, the founder of Hunter-Gatherer, found his spark while studying abroad in Scotland. “I kind of fell in love with the idea that you can make beer,” he shared with a nostalgic chuckle. Upon returning to the United States, Varner embraced his new passion, crafting small batches of beer in his USC apartment using a 20-gallon setup.
After graduating, Varner made his way to Seattle to work at Hale’s Ales brewery, soaking up the craft of brewing. When he returned to South Carolina, the landscape was seemingly devoid of brewpubs, with state laws not yet allowing the blossoming craft beer scene to unfold. However, in the mid-1990s, legislation changed, opening the doors for innovative establishments like Varner’s.
In 1995, taking a leap of faith, Varner opened the Hunter-Gatherer at 900 Main Street after several months of searching for the perfect location. “It was imperfect,” he commented on the initial selection of the building. Yet, he recognized its potential and set to work transforming it into a welcoming microbrewery.
Hunter-Gatherer quickly became a staple in downtown Columbia, attracting crowds with its cozy atmosphere and quality house-brewed beers. “In the beginning, it was pretty tough, but we opened with a big bang,” Varner recalls, noting that loyal patrons, many hailing from other places, contributed to its growing popularity.
As the days tick down to the final closing, Varner finds himself reminiscing about the countless memories made within those walls. “I met my wife there. Kids had birthday parties there. All kinds of family occasions,” he reflected, with a hint of sadness. Hunter-Gatherer has played host to laughter, good food, and camaraderie, embodying the very essence of community.
Phill Blair, a former resident and longtime patron, echoed similar sentiments, saying, “Every day at the end of the day was going across the street for a beer. The food was always great.” The menu has evolved dramatically over the years, going from simple hummus to delicious burgers and upscale dishes like braised lamb shank.
While the Hunter-Gatherer on Main Street is set to close, excitement still brews at the Hangar location on Jim Hamilton Boulevard, which opened in 2018. Varner looks forward to many more years of crafting wonderful memories there. Meanwhile, the property on Main Street was purchased by the University of South Carolina Development Foundation, with potential plans in the works for future growth in that part of Columbia.
Varner has appreciated the outpouring of love from customers and community members since announcing the bittersweet news. “That’s what I wanted to create when I opened the place. A sense of community,” he mused. Hunter-Gatherer’s legacy will surely linger as people remember the eclectic atmosphere and the many happy occasions spent there.
The closing of Hunter-Gatherer at 900 Main St. may mark the end of a cherished chapter for Columbia, but the stories, the people, and the good times shared there will live on. As the community raises their glasses and bids farewell, excitement for what’s to come at the Hangar location brightens the outlook for the future. Columbia will always have its memories and the craft beer culture that Hunter-Gatherer played a monumental role in establishing. Here’s to new adventures ahead!
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